Do you have tips on growing healthy Adeniums (Desert Rose plants - succulent) in Wisconsin?

Hi, I am interested in growing some really healthy adeniums that I can use as Bonsai, or tree-art (since true Bonsai is a much more disciplined art-form than I have patience for or knowledge of).....but I live in North Central WI and I am worried that I will have trouble with these equatorial plants. Does anyone have any experience from a northern climate, and would you mind sharing a few tips or strategies? thanks.
Do you have tips on growing healthy Adeniums (Desert Rose plants - succulent) in Wisconsin?
http://davesgarden.com/pf/showimage/1231...



The forums in the site below also has info. If one registers more info from experts can be got.

http://www.bonsaisite.com/
Reply:From:

http://www.theamateursdigest.com/sfsq%26amp;a....



Here is a bit of information that might be helpful to you:



"When any plant is accustomed to being in one location and it is moved to another place where growing conditions are very different, chances are the plant will suffer some shock. The most frequent reaction is for the plant's leaves to turn yellow and drop off.



The worst thing you can do is take a plant from inside the house and put it in full sun. Moving a plant outdoors into sun should be done over a period of several weeks, moving the plant gradually into stronger light and finally sunshine. Once a plant is happy in its location it is always better to leave it where it is .. unless, with time, problems like yours occur indicating the plant is not happy.



If growing conditions are not ideal for your Adenium it can stop flowering. Not enough sunshine provided at a West window would be the first thing to consider. Adeniums do best in full sun and warm temperatures.



Cactus soil mix is for cactus .. not adeniums. Adeniums need a richer soil mix that has some peat moss added (for acidity) and if possible some organic material such as compost. Course sand should be added to ensure excellent drainage. There are many brands of ready made potting soil on the market that you can buy with these ingredients already mixed for your convenience.



When this plant is healthy it needs to be thoroughly watered and then allowed to ALMOST dry out before watering thoroughly again. It should never be allowed to go totally dry. This in itself can result in leaf drop.

The plant can also drop leaves if it wants to go dormant and have a rest. When that happens watering should be considerably reduced. I don't think, however, that dormancy is the reason for your plant's leaf drop.



Another reason for leaf drop can be shock from the plant being subjected to cold temperatures. That wind and hail you talk about could have contributed to the plant's unhappiness. Over watering can also cause leaf drop.



Osmocote (time release fertilizer) is a good product but I prefer to fertilizer once a month in spring and summer with a balanced liquid houseplant fertilizer (20-20-20) at half strength recommended on the fertilizer instructions. If the plant goes dormant (usually during winter months) it should not be fed at all and adding Osmocote to the soil means it will be fed whether it needs it or not. Right now, for example, since the plant is showing signs of stress by leaf drop it should not be fertilized at all until some improvement is noticed.



Clay pots are fine but having used both over the years, I prefer plastic pots. In porous clay pots the soil dries out much too fast for my liking.



The plant will produce new leaves if given the right conditions. The most important of those is enough light. I suggest you move the plant to a position in the home where it will have more sunshine than it presently receives at a West window. After that I'd change the soil mix to a richer one, as described above .. and do not fertilize until you see signs of new growth. Until you see improvement, hold back on watering too, giving only enough to keep the roots from totally drying out. That can be done by watering into the pot saucer and not into the pot from above."